Appliance Installation Geelong
Ovens, cooktops, rangehoods and other hard-wired appliances connected safely across Geelong, by CabledIN
Appliance installation in Geelong means having a licensed electrician connect a hard-wired appliance, such as an oven, cooktop, rangehood or electric hot water unit, to a circuit that suits it. CabledIN (REC 30925) checks the circuit, fits the isolating switch where one is needed, connects and tests the appliance, and gives you a Certificate of Electrical Safety.
A like-for-like swap onto a sound circuit is usually a short visit. We quote once we know the appliance and have seen the board.
- What we connect
- Ovens, cooktops, rangehoods and hot water units, plus power points for TVs and plug-in appliances
- Who can do it
- Hard-wired appliances are connected by a licensed electrician
- Paperwork
- Certificate of Electrical Safety for the work
- Who does it
- Licensed electricians, REC 30925
Appliances we install and connect
Each of these has its own page with the detail for that job:
- Oven installation. Wall ovens, under-bench ovens and freestanding cookers connected, with the circuit checked against the new oven's rating.
- Rangehood installation. Power supplied where the rangehood needs it, and the unit connected.
- Cooktops. Electric and induction cooktops hard-wired, with the isolating switch Energy Safe Victoria's guidance calls for.
- Electric hot water. New electric storage and heat pump units connected, and elements and thermostats repaired.
- TV wall mounting. The TV mounted, with a power point and antenna point placed behind it so no cables show.
- Dishwashers, fridges and laundry appliances. These plug in. We add the power point where the appliance will sit, on a circuit that can carry it.
Our records show more than 70 appliance jobs, most often in Bannockburn, Lara, Leopold, Torquay, Geelong West and Corio.
Hard-wired or plug-in: what needs an electrician
An appliance with a standard plug can be plugged into a suitable power point by anyone. An appliance that is wired straight into the house wiring cannot. In Victoria, electrical equipment that operates above extra-low voltage must be installed and connected by a licensed electrician, and Energy Safe Victoria is blunt about doing it yourself: it is illegal and it can be deadly.
That covers most ovens and cooktops, hard-wired rangehoods and electric hot water units. It also covers the work around a plug-in appliance: adding a power point, moving one, or running a new circuit. In Victoria an electrician has to work for a registered electrical contractor to do work for a customer. Ours is REC 30925, and you can check it on Energy Safe Victoria's public register. Our guide is DIY electrical work legal in Victoria? sets out where the line sits.
Talk to a licensed Geelong electrician (REC 30925).
Does your new appliance need its own circuit?
Large appliances draw more current than a general power circuit is built to carry. The installation manual lists the rating, and we check it against the cable and breaker already there.
- Ovens and cooktops usually run on a dedicated circuit. A new induction cooktop often needs a larger circuit than the cooktop it replaces.
- Higher-rated plug-in appliances need a matching outlet. We fit 15 amp, 20 amp and 32 amp outlets where the appliance calls for one.
- Electric hot water runs on its own circuit with an isolating switch at the unit.
- Protection. New circuits are fitted with a combined circuit breaker and safety switch (RCD) at the switchboard.
If the board has no space, or still runs on fuses, a switchboard upgrade may have to come first. Powercor lists new appliances among the common reasons a home needs more supply, though most kitchens do not need that.
Induction cooktops: what they need from your wiring
An induction cooktop heats the pan through a magnetic field instead of a hot element or a flame. A full-size one is among the largest loads in a house, so what sits behind the wall matters. Four things decide what your kitchen needs:
- The rating. The installation manual lists it. Most full-size induction cooktops are hard-wired to their own circuit. A few smaller models are made to plug into a power point, and portable plates plug in.
- The cable. The cable that ran an older ceramic or solid hotplate cooktop may be too small for the new one. If so, a new, larger cable is run from the switchboard.
- The switchboard. The cooktop needs its own circuit breaker and safety switch, so the board needs room for them. An old fuse board may need a switchboard upgrade first.
- The isolating switch. It has to suit the Energy Safe Victoria guidance set out below: visible, readily accessible and not on the appliance.
Some induction cooktops also have a setting that limits how much power they draw, so they can suit a smaller circuit. Send us the model number and we will tell you which case you are in before you buy. Our oven and cooktop installation page has more on cooktop swaps.
Switching from gas to electric appliances: the electrical side
Replacing a gas cooktop, oven, hot water unit or heater with an electric one is mostly new electrical work, because a gas appliance needs little or no power. We do the electrical side. Disconnecting and capping the gas is a licensed gasfitter's job, and we do not do gas work.
| Gas appliance | Electric replacement | The electrical side usually needs |
|---|---|---|
| Gas cooktop | Induction or ceramic cooktop | A new dedicated circuit from the switchboard and an isolating switch. The old cooktop only had a power point for its ignition |
| Gas oven | Electric wall oven or freestanding cooker | A circuit sized to the oven's rating, usually a new one |
| Gas hot water | Heat pump or electric storage unit | A new circuit to the unit, with a weatherproof outlet or isolating switch beside it |
| Gas space heater | Reverse-cycle split system | Its own circuit, with an isolating switch at the outdoor unit |
Plan the switchboard and supply once
Each new appliance adds a circuit, and each circuit needs room on the switchboard for a breaker and safety switch. Going all-electric also adds to the total load on the house. Powercor lists new appliances and larger air conditioning among the common reasons a home needs more supply. Many homes do not, but where one does, only a registered electrical contractor can lodge the request with Powercor, and we handle it as part of a mains upgrade.
If you are changing several appliances over a year or two, tell us the whole plan at the first visit. The board and the supply can then be sorted once, not each time an appliance changes. Our guide do I need to upgrade my switchboard? explains the signs a board is due.
Not sure what you need? Tell us what is happening and we will talk it through.
Victorian rules for cooktops and isolating switches
Energy Safe Victoria's guidance for cooking appliances with an open cooking surface is specific:
- The appliance needs an isolating switch that is visible and readily accessible.
- The switch should be within 2 metres of the appliance.
- The switch is not mounted on the appliance itself.
- No switch or socket sits within 150 mm of the edge of the cooking surface.
Older kitchens often have no isolating switch, or one hidden in a cupboard. When we fit a new cooktop we check the switch position and correct it as part of the job. A Certificate of Electrical Safety must be provided for all electrical installation work, whatever the size of the job. Appliance connections are non-prescribed work, so there is no separate inspector's visit, and your copy of the certificate is due within 30 days.
How appliance installation works
- Send us the model. The model number or the installation manual tells us the rating and the connection type before we arrive.
- Check the circuit and the board. We look at the existing cable, breaker and isolating switch, and tell you if anything has to change.
- Quote. You get a price for the connection and, separately, for any new circuit.
- Disconnect the old appliance and make the wiring safe.
- Connect the new one. Cabinetry cut-outs and plumbing are not electrical work, so have the opening ready and sized to the manual.
- Test. We test the circuit, switch the appliance on and run it with you.
- Certificate. You receive a Certificate of Electrical Safety.
When a new appliance trips the power
A new appliance that trips a breaker is usually on a circuit too small for it, or sharing a circuit with other heavy loads. One that trips the safety switch may have a fault of its own, or may have shown up a fault that was already in the wiring. We test the circuit and the appliance separately to find out which.
Where the fault is inside the appliance and it is under warranty, the manufacturer's service agent is the right call, and we will tell you that instead of charging you to guess. Where the fault is in the house wiring, we repair it.
If other circuits trip too, or the tripping started before the new appliance arrived, our electrical fault finding and repairs service traces the cause.
Why choose CabledIN for appliance installation
- Licensed Registered Electrical Contractor, REC 30925, based in North Geelong
- More than 20 years' experience
- Lifetime workmanship warranty
- 2,000+ five-star Google reviews
- Geelong, the Bellarine Peninsula, the Surf Coast and Golden Plains covered
What customers say
Prompt, friendly staff member Daniel replaced my stove fan efficiently and even vacuumed the area afterwards! Landlord covered cost so don’t know the price but would highly recommend them. Very professional and I was pleased with their service from booking to conclusion.
Melanie, Google review
Frequently asked questions
Who does appliance installation in Geelong?
CabledIN's licensed electricians connect ovens, cooktops, rangehoods and electric hot water units across Geelong, the Bellarine, the Surf Coast and Golden Plains. Call 1300 025 555.
Do I need an electrician to install an oven or cooktop?
Yes, if it is hard-wired, and most are. In Victoria equipment wired into the house must be installed and connected by a licensed electrician.
Will you install an appliance I bought myself?
Yes. Send us the model number first so we can check the rating and connection type against your existing circuit.
Does an induction cooktop need a new circuit?
Often. Induction cooktops commonly draw more than the cooktop they replace, so the cable and breaker may need to be larger. We check the manual against what is there.
Can I just swap my old oven for a new one on the same wiring?
Only if the new oven's rating suits the existing cable and breaker, and only with an electrician doing the connection. Many like-for-like swaps are fine. We check before connecting.
Do I get a certificate for an appliance installation?
Yes. A Certificate of Electrical Safety must be provided for all electrical installation work in Victoria, whatever the size of the job.
Does my cooktop need an isolating switch?
Yes. Energy Safe Victoria's guidance is that it needs one that is visible and readily accessible, within about 2 metres, and not mounted on the appliance.
Do you install dishwashers?
We do the electrical side: a power point in the right place on a suitable circuit. The water and waste connections are a plumber's job.
Why does my new appliance keep tripping the power?
Either the circuit is too small or shared with other heavy loads, or there is a fault in the appliance or the wiring. We test both to find which.
Can my home go from gas to all-electric appliances?
On the electrical side, usually yes. Each new appliance needs a suitable circuit, the switchboard needs room for those circuits, and the supply has to carry the total load. We check all three before you buy, and a licensed gasfitter disconnects and caps the gas.
Can an induction cooktop plug into a normal power point?
Most full-size induction cooktops cannot. They are hard-wired to their own circuit. A few smaller models and portable plates are made to plug in, and the manual says which type you have.
Who disconnects the gas when I change to an electric appliance?
A licensed gasfitter. We do not do gas work. We do the electrical side: the new circuit, the isolating switch, the connection, testing and the Certificate of Electrical Safety.
Still have a question? Ask the CabledIN team.